I think I left off with Thursday night/Friday morning. Let me continue from there. So Molly and I are in our little tree hippo hide and we decide to go on a river safari Friday morning. Silent Bob (my nickname for our tour guide) picks us up and takes us out on the river in the sketchy little canoe again, but this time we have more faith and are a lot lighter because we don't have our backpacks. So we go out and actually see a lot of hippos. Waaaay cool. We probably see about ten of them. But for some reason we stay super far away. We ask if we can go a little closer so we don't have to squint to see whether that one is a hippo or a rock, but no, we can't. The only words in Silent Bob's vocabulary to us were: "no," "hippo," and "we go." We know he knew more English than that because we heard him talking to someone else in English. He just didn't feel the need to talk to us for some reason. But whatever. We looked through binoculars and saw the hippos in the water. They look different than I imagined. In the zoos they always look gray to me. However, in the wild, these were pink and purple. I swear I am not making that up! They really were. I don't have any proof though as I didn't take my camera onto the sketchy canoe. There was no way I was putting my first-born child in any danger of drowning or shorting out. Not gonna happen. I would rather lose a photo opportunity than my baby. Come to think of it though, I haven't named him. It's a boy, by the way. New contest: name Haley's camera. Winning name gets an original signed print of their choosing. I'm serious too. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity my friends. Jump on this train!
Anyways, back to hippos. As it turns out, you can't really watch hippos all day long. See, they don't actually move. At all. Or do anything for that matter. In the hour that Molly and I were out on the river, we moved more to perfect our sunbathing than these hippos budged at all. I like me some hippopotamus, but damn they are boring. All we actually saw of them was ears and eyes. I don't even know how big they are because they never came out of the water. But it was still cool. After the safari, Molly and I sat in our hippo hide and I read Catch-22 out loud to her and we had a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon besides rationing our supplies. Oh man, oh man, did I forget to tell you about this!?! So the jerk that we talked to on Thursday told us that we would be able to purchase provisions and that they provided cooking supplies at the hippo hide out. Well, as it turns out, that is not true. There was also no clean water source like they told us there would be. Luckily, Molly and I had a 1.5L bottle of water each and for food, a loaf of bread, some Laughing Cow cheese, and a 5 piece package of shortbread. This is what the two of us lived off of all day Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. This is reason numero uno why we are hardcore to the millionth power. When we finally were able to get water on Saturday mid-day, it wasn't even a reliable source. Just an unpurified well that some Rotary Club dug forever ago. But hey, if I've got to pick between death by dehydration or a case of diarrhea, you can bet I'll go for the runs. (Sorry if that was gross. As it turns out, all has been fine on that front so far. No worries.)
So the next unfortunate event came Friday night, completely unforeseen. Molly and I were asleep on our little latex foam pads under our mosquito nets when we were awakened by tremendous gusts of wind. And without second guessing, we knew what was coming. Oh yes, dear readers, while sleeping without any kind of shelter, in a TREE, by a RIVER, 30 minutes by CANOE from NOWHERE, Molly Thompson and Haley Ray were caught in a 9 hour+ African thunderstorm. By some chance of Providence, I happened to pack some of my stuff in Ziplock bags. Immediately we start pulling stuff out and putting cameras, phones, iPods, and books into safe haven. I must say that I do wish the Ziplock corporation could make life size bags. It would have helped. From what we guess to have been about 10 or 11pm to what we know was 8am, Molly and I shivered helplessly, drenched to the bone, shaking, spooning to preserve body heat, lying on one pad with the other pulled on top of us, trying to limit the amount of rain. But this wasn't just a rain. It was a storm. The wind blew so hard and the rain just pelted. I have to say that those were probably the most physically miserable hours of my life. At first it was funny, but then it was just scary. There was no shelter we could reach, no one who could help us, no heat available, we were almost out of food and completely out of water. I really thought I might get pneumonia like Mom. I just thought about the hysterical irony that would come from me getting pneumonia in Africa. I mean, come on, who else could say that?!
It was so awful, it is actually kind of hard to talk about. I know, funny, me finding something hard to talk about. But it was such a miserable night, even thinking about it brings back some of the fear that accompanied that experience. Molly and I couldn't sleep of course. We were too cold, tired, wet, and terrified to sleep. All we could think about was the fact that our "guide" was supposed to come get us once it was light and about the fact that we were pissed that he hadn't come to get us already. Molly started singing "We're gonna make it! Oh yeah, we're gonna make it! We're gonna make it 'til the moooooorn" to the tune of "We're not gonna take it! Oh yeah, we're not gonna take it! We're not gonna take it anymoooooore" and I must say- it was inspirational indeed. (If you would like the full lyrics to the Twisted Sister original, they may be found here.) Finally dawn appeared. To our weary relief. But alas, no Silent Bob! How could this be, you ask? I'll tell you. Our "guide" didn't feel like getting wet, and so, left us out in the rain to fend for ourselves. Only once the rain stopped did he show up. Jerk. And even then, he kept that vow of silence and rudeness. No "sorry," no sarcastic, "How was your night?" even. Nothing. Just, "We go?" The only thing Molly and I could say was, "Yeah, we go. We go now." It was slightly pathetic in recollection. And with that, Molly and I give reason numero dos as to why we are hardcore to the millionth power. And then we got the hell out of Weichau. ForEVER. (The valley girl accent that seems implied by that inflection is really only optional. To each, his own.)
On the way from Weichau to Wa, we attempted to dry our wet and NASTY clothes by hanging them out of the tro tro to let them dry. And during the two times that the tro broke down, we spread out jeans, sarongs, and towels on the top of the car. All the locals were laughing at us. But us: we're hardcore. So we didn't even care. Once we got to Wa, we looked at our options for getting to Kumasi as soon as possible. There was a luxury bus (aka known as a Greyhound in the States) leaving at 7pm or we could take our chances with a tro. We took the tro. Bad choice. We got on the tro at 1.30 being told it would leave at 2. About 4.30 we pull out of the station and head on our way. This tro is squashed with 27 people in it. 27 people in a minibus. We got super intimate with some 25 Ghanaians, let me tell ya. For what ended up being a 12 hour trip. Again I say, let no one in the entire United States complain about any trip involving comfort levels and automobiles. Note that it took us 8 hours to get from Kumasi to Wa originally, but took 12 hours to get from Wa to Kumasi. OUCH. That compounded with my tendency to have terrible carsickness and you get one hell of an unfortunate event. Also note that Molly has a fractured back. That made it even more of an unfortunate event. This tro ride was somewhat redeemed by the fact that we flat out refused to pay the BS luggage fee for our backpacks because it should have been nicknamed "the absurd imaginary fee that we try to harass and intimidate poor obruni students into paying even though they know that NO ONE else on the entire tro had to pay it." Needless to say, we had put up with waaaaay to much this weekend to even think about giving in to that. We just yelled at the guy who wasn't even in charge of anything until he started yelling at the driver who then just started driving and ran over the asshole's foot on the way out of the station. Talk about sticking it to the man! Hells yeah!!! Molly and I rejoiced over our victory for no less than two hours. I still grin just thinking about it. Obrunis: 1; Ass: 0!! hahahahahhaa. It just feels good to know that we stood up for ourselves and won! So anyways, the rest of the tro was pretty miserable as is now known by Molly as "The Tro From Hell" so I won't go into any more detail. I know this is long enough already.
Finally at 4 in the morning we get to Kumasi and have to find a place to sleep. This proves to be hard. We ask a taxi driver to take us to a lodge. Any lodge. We don't even haggle on the price. We are so worn down from the combined anorexia, insomnia, and dehydration that have filled the past three days that we just can't fight anymore. After two cheap places, the driver finally got sick of us and dropped us off at the nearest place he could find that would take us. It turned out to be really expensive, but we didn't even care. Until we got to the room and there was a huge mystery stain all over the bed. Even though it was 4am we made them switch us. Once moved, Molly and I began the recovery period of our trip. I like to think of it as a self-made paradise.
We had the lovely surprise of hot showers and we milked it. Hot showers were had and we laid out all our clothes to dry and turned up the air conditioning and hunkered down under the blankets and slept our little hearts out until housekeeping woke us up at 11 which was quite fortuitous as checkout was at noon. After we left the Sanbra Hotel (and dude, they gave us a 10 Cedi discount since we came in the middle of the night. Sahweeeeet!!!), we went straight to the Engineering Guest House on the campus of Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology which is pretty much akin to my idea of heaven. It is probably akin to your idea of a two maybe three star hotel, but three is pushing it. However it has a restaurant, hot showers, two beds, air conditioning, and a TV with cheap imported shows from the States and a BOMB movie channel. And we took full advantage of all of these things. We ate ungodly amounts of deliciousness in the 24 hours that we were at the hotel including, but not limited to: chicken curry, french onion soup, ice cream, a cheese omelet, oatmeal. Ahhh, so good! We watched an old episode of American Idol, and three movies- The Constant Gardener, The Merchant of Venice, and From Justin to Kelly. I don't think I could have planned a better time. It was AWESOME. We got our clothes finally dry although still smelling of mildew, mold, and general ewwwww-ness.
And that my friends, is the general tale of Molly and Haley's adventure of a lifetime that God-willing, will never happen again.
-----------------
In other news, I have had my laundry done. And it is now clean and smells good.
Also, Carlee, I got your package. Thank you soooo much! I LOVE LOVE LOVE it! It absolutely made my day. Sorry I'm not more verbose, but you should know I am extremely grateful!
I think I have bored you all enough for the evening. Sorry this one isn't as funny as yesterday's. I meant to be wittier, but I'm just pretty tired. I have a final on Thursday and I'm ready to go to bed. Happy Halloween to all of you! Be safe and have fun!! I love you all soooo much!
Mucho amor,
H
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
Monday, October 29, 2007
Haley and Molly Are Hardcore to the Millionth Power
This was by far THE MOST ridiculous trip that I have ever been on in my life. I thought I had seen and done it all, but no... this one takes the cake. It is so enormous, there is no way I will be able to write the whole thing in one sitting. So stay tuned for Part Deux. If all goes well, it should come tomorrow. Alright, enough stalling, get ready and sit tight, because this is one funny and outrageous ride.
The whole trip starts out with us hightailing it to the STC bus station before 7am on Wednesday morning. The bus is set to leave at 8, but this is Ghana, so we figure we have plenty of time. WRONG. We get there at like 8.45. The bus hasn't left yet, but there's only one seat left on the bus. And Molly and I happen to number two. Instant predicament. So our taxi driver, whom Molly and I love and fought over who gets to marry him, went up there and got us the empty seat and persuaded them to give us another ticket in hopes that we could just sneak on. Oh yes, my friends, we bribed the government regulated bus operation into giving us a ticket that didn't exist. Thank God for Peter. We love him. So then they tell us that sorry, our obruni money isn't good enough and only one of us can get on the bus after all... WHAT THE HELL- those are the only three words that formed in my mind for a while before the begging sector of my brain took over. The reason it was so crucial that we get on this bus was that it was the only one leaving until Saturday, thereby ruining our trip if we missed it on Wednesday. So we got on the bus by rotating which one of us sat in the seat and which one got the stairs at the front of the bus. Awesome on a 14 hour bus trip on mostly dirt roads. Please remind me never to complain about being uncomfortable on a car trip anytime I am in the US where my ass is in contact with a cushiony seat. Preferably shotgun or captain's chair, of course, but nonetheless... So moving on. The bus didn't leave until 1pm. No joke. 1pm. That's five hours late for those of you who don't like math. Want to know why we were so late? We actually pulled out of the station around 11, but about 10 minutes into our trip, the bus driver (and I am actually not kidding about this) rear ends the car in front of us. And this is supposed to be the safe means of transportation. So after our wreck, the driver leaves with the person he hit to do whatever, so we had to wait for that driver to come back. Like any of us want to ride with him now. So we finally get on the road and blah, blah, blah... we get offered free phones by the guy sitting next to Molly. In the States, you have to be friends with someone to reap the benefits of friendly favors, in Ghana, you just have to sit next to them on a bus apparently. Owusu is actually a really nice guy who works for a competitor of our phone company. So he's bribing us to switch. And I will if we actually get the phones- OneTouch is so cheap compared to Kasapa. Such a ripoff. Anyways, we watched ridiculous Ghanaian movies for a while until everyone went to sleep. It was my turn to be on the stairs and I'd say it was about hmm maybe 1.30 or so in the morning, when I wake up and open my eyes to see the bus driver staring at me. Note that I was behind him. Opposite direction from the road. Any wonder why this guy has already had a wreck? He then proceeds to ask me if I am married. If I'm married?!?!! I tell him no, and he generously offers that he will marry me. All while the man is driving. And looking at me. Behind him. While I was sleeping. AKA CREEPOOOO. So now I have to deal with deflecting an unwanted proposal in my semi-conscious state as quickly as possible to avoid becoming an example in a Driver's Ed class. Greaaaat. I finally just tell him that I'm not ready to get married any time soon, but I will try to find him if I'm ever in Ghana again once I'm older. He seemed pretty pleased with this response and went back to driving. I count this as a mission successful.
So 14 hours later, otherwise known as 3 in the morning, we get to Wa. We share a taxi and lodge room with this woman we met on the bus and her baby. Mom- so nice. Baby- sooooo cute!! but kinda loud. ew. After we got out of there and onto our tro tro to Weichau looking forward to the Sanctuary of Hippos, we encounter flooding. There has been bad flooding in the Northern regions of Ghana, but we hadn't paid much attention to it until everyone had to get out of the tro and walk while the driver was a total crazy stunt man and drove through intense river-like puddles, mud swamps, etc. I give him SUCH major props. I wish he had been our driver for the rest of the trip. Up until this point, this point being when we actually got to the Hippo Sanctuary, our trip was AWESOME. Unconventional, yes. But still great! And then Molly and I arrived in Weichau where I am sure our legacy of misery will last much longer than our human memories. And yes, I know I am exaggerating, but just wait to hear what happened before you pass judgment.
This place was a nightmare. There is no nice way to say it. The guy in charge was the biggest jackass in Ghana that I have met so far. He was so rude to us from the start, making us pay extraordinary amounts to charter a tro to the river since it was like 10 miles and too far for us to walk that day as we were super tired from getting to the hostel at almost 4 and sleeping for only 5 hours after a 14 hour bus ride from literally one end of the country to the other. Then, when we ask him why it is so expensive, he tells us that no one else goes to this area and we will have to make it worth the driver's while to take us there and go back without having any other customers. So we say ok, knowing that we have no other choice. Literally 5 minutes later, he asks if 5 local women he knows can ride with us for free since we already got the tro tro. We say sure, being nice people, then realize that this guy has duped us into paying the fare for all of his friends. Being pissed, we say they can still ride with us, but we ask him why he lied to us. Why he told us no one else was going that direction? That we would be the only ones wanting a tro to go that way? Interesting hmm, that the foreigners are supposed to pay all the money and give free rides for this guy's friends? So we confronted him about it just wanting him to apologize and maybe if we're lucky, give us some of our money back. We are mad at him, NOT at the ladies on the tro tro with us. His jerk solution? Make them get off. We told him that it was our choice to allow them onto the car with us since we paid for it after all, but this guy told us that we would write a bad report whatever that meant, saying that he cheated us, so he made them get off. We told him we would write a worse report due to his actions. It didn't matter. So who knows what these women thought of us, when we were motioning that they should stay seated, but he's probably telling them we're the white devil making them walk since we want to be alone or think we're better than them or some BS like that. Who knows what he told them, but they gave us some nasty looks. I probably don't even want to know. Oh, and this is after we waited for that tro for over an hour because he didn't tell them we wanted to go then. We just assumed that it wasn't there yet. Oh no, it had been waiting the whole time. He just forgot to tell them we were ready to go. And when we finally asked about it, he blamed it on the driver. Some cock and bull story about how the driver was waiting on a key to a bike. Complete lies. This guy was so awful I'm getting mad just writing about it. He thought he could use and extort us just because we are foreigners.
So finally we go, alone, and really pissed with a guide who says nothing-not one word- to us, as he probably hates us too. We got there at 12 and are just now leaving around 3. Three hours of sitting around listening to complete crap. What a waste. Then we get to the place where we are supposed to take our canoe to the "hippo hide" where we will be staying, we are told by our "guide" (and I use that term very, very loosely) that the boat man just isn't there, so we will have to wait for him to get there before we can canoe to our destination for the weekend. Around 4-ish, maybe 4.30, we finally ask our guide if we can at least sit beside the river to wait for the boat man instead of standing in the middle of tall grass in the middle of nowhere. He says no. But then miraculously he gets a vision from God, after we start complaining of course, that the boat man is there by the river, and takes us to where the boat man is, indeed, waiting for us. FANCY THAT! Someone who actually does their job. As it turns out, the boat man is just a kid from the village who has a leaky canoe that threatens to tip or sink with every gust of wind. The water was literally tipping over the sides whenever one of them had a particularly powerful stroke. I'd say it was about 5pm when we set out on our 30 minute canoe ride to our hippo hide out. Then we start to see the lightning. Not kidding, we are in a leaky canoe in the middle of a 30 minute trip with no place to dock in the middle of a river during a lightning storm. I had drowning/frying nightmares that night. Hard to have at the same time, but what can I say? This was a special place! We finally get to the hippo hide after much trepidation and terror and realize that hide/ hide out is not quite what Molly and I would have called it. We tell-it-like-it-is kind of people would most accurately say: planks of wood nailed together around a tree. It was a platform with a railing. In a tree. This was actually pretty cool for the first 24 hours. We loved our little mosquito net, and getting to hear the sounds of nature. It was quite nice. Until Friday happened. Dum, dum, dum, duuuuuuuh.
I just realized how long this is so I think I will start with Part Deux tomorrow. I know it is hard to believe, but the best is yet to come. I hope you all appreciate that I am still alive after what I will tell you about Friday night. I really at one point, wanted to come home. Like US home. But I'm over it and still here, and alive, and good now. Stay tuned folks, cuz this story is to be continued...
Love,
Haley
The whole trip starts out with us hightailing it to the STC bus station before 7am on Wednesday morning. The bus is set to leave at 8, but this is Ghana, so we figure we have plenty of time. WRONG. We get there at like 8.45. The bus hasn't left yet, but there's only one seat left on the bus. And Molly and I happen to number two. Instant predicament. So our taxi driver, whom Molly and I love and fought over who gets to marry him, went up there and got us the empty seat and persuaded them to give us another ticket in hopes that we could just sneak on. Oh yes, my friends, we bribed the government regulated bus operation into giving us a ticket that didn't exist. Thank God for Peter. We love him. So then they tell us that sorry, our obruni money isn't good enough and only one of us can get on the bus after all... WHAT THE HELL- those are the only three words that formed in my mind for a while before the begging sector of my brain took over. The reason it was so crucial that we get on this bus was that it was the only one leaving until Saturday, thereby ruining our trip if we missed it on Wednesday. So we got on the bus by rotating which one of us sat in the seat and which one got the stairs at the front of the bus. Awesome on a 14 hour bus trip on mostly dirt roads. Please remind me never to complain about being uncomfortable on a car trip anytime I am in the US where my ass is in contact with a cushiony seat. Preferably shotgun or captain's chair, of course, but nonetheless... So moving on. The bus didn't leave until 1pm. No joke. 1pm. That's five hours late for those of you who don't like math. Want to know why we were so late? We actually pulled out of the station around 11, but about 10 minutes into our trip, the bus driver (and I am actually not kidding about this) rear ends the car in front of us. And this is supposed to be the safe means of transportation. So after our wreck, the driver leaves with the person he hit to do whatever, so we had to wait for that driver to come back. Like any of us want to ride with him now. So we finally get on the road and blah, blah, blah... we get offered free phones by the guy sitting next to Molly. In the States, you have to be friends with someone to reap the benefits of friendly favors, in Ghana, you just have to sit next to them on a bus apparently. Owusu is actually a really nice guy who works for a competitor of our phone company. So he's bribing us to switch. And I will if we actually get the phones- OneTouch is so cheap compared to Kasapa. Such a ripoff. Anyways, we watched ridiculous Ghanaian movies for a while until everyone went to sleep. It was my turn to be on the stairs and I'd say it was about hmm maybe 1.30 or so in the morning, when I wake up and open my eyes to see the bus driver staring at me. Note that I was behind him. Opposite direction from the road. Any wonder why this guy has already had a wreck? He then proceeds to ask me if I am married. If I'm married?!?!! I tell him no, and he generously offers that he will marry me. All while the man is driving. And looking at me. Behind him. While I was sleeping. AKA CREEPOOOO. So now I have to deal with deflecting an unwanted proposal in my semi-conscious state as quickly as possible to avoid becoming an example in a Driver's Ed class. Greaaaat. I finally just tell him that I'm not ready to get married any time soon, but I will try to find him if I'm ever in Ghana again once I'm older. He seemed pretty pleased with this response and went back to driving. I count this as a mission successful.
So 14 hours later, otherwise known as 3 in the morning, we get to Wa. We share a taxi and lodge room with this woman we met on the bus and her baby. Mom- so nice. Baby- sooooo cute!! but kinda loud. ew. After we got out of there and onto our tro tro to Weichau looking forward to the Sanctuary of Hippos, we encounter flooding. There has been bad flooding in the Northern regions of Ghana, but we hadn't paid much attention to it until everyone had to get out of the tro and walk while the driver was a total crazy stunt man and drove through intense river-like puddles, mud swamps, etc. I give him SUCH major props. I wish he had been our driver for the rest of the trip. Up until this point, this point being when we actually got to the Hippo Sanctuary, our trip was AWESOME. Unconventional, yes. But still great! And then Molly and I arrived in Weichau where I am sure our legacy of misery will last much longer than our human memories. And yes, I know I am exaggerating, but just wait to hear what happened before you pass judgment.
This place was a nightmare. There is no nice way to say it. The guy in charge was the biggest jackass in Ghana that I have met so far. He was so rude to us from the start, making us pay extraordinary amounts to charter a tro to the river since it was like 10 miles and too far for us to walk that day as we were super tired from getting to the hostel at almost 4 and sleeping for only 5 hours after a 14 hour bus ride from literally one end of the country to the other. Then, when we ask him why it is so expensive, he tells us that no one else goes to this area and we will have to make it worth the driver's while to take us there and go back without having any other customers. So we say ok, knowing that we have no other choice. Literally 5 minutes later, he asks if 5 local women he knows can ride with us for free since we already got the tro tro. We say sure, being nice people, then realize that this guy has duped us into paying the fare for all of his friends. Being pissed, we say they can still ride with us, but we ask him why he lied to us. Why he told us no one else was going that direction? That we would be the only ones wanting a tro to go that way? Interesting hmm, that the foreigners are supposed to pay all the money and give free rides for this guy's friends? So we confronted him about it just wanting him to apologize and maybe if we're lucky, give us some of our money back. We are mad at him, NOT at the ladies on the tro tro with us. His jerk solution? Make them get off. We told him that it was our choice to allow them onto the car with us since we paid for it after all, but this guy told us that we would write a bad report whatever that meant, saying that he cheated us, so he made them get off. We told him we would write a worse report due to his actions. It didn't matter. So who knows what these women thought of us, when we were motioning that they should stay seated, but he's probably telling them we're the white devil making them walk since we want to be alone or think we're better than them or some BS like that. Who knows what he told them, but they gave us some nasty looks. I probably don't even want to know. Oh, and this is after we waited for that tro for over an hour because he didn't tell them we wanted to go then. We just assumed that it wasn't there yet. Oh no, it had been waiting the whole time. He just forgot to tell them we were ready to go. And when we finally asked about it, he blamed it on the driver. Some cock and bull story about how the driver was waiting on a key to a bike. Complete lies. This guy was so awful I'm getting mad just writing about it. He thought he could use and extort us just because we are foreigners.
So finally we go, alone, and really pissed with a guide who says nothing-not one word- to us, as he probably hates us too. We got there at 12 and are just now leaving around 3. Three hours of sitting around listening to complete crap. What a waste. Then we get to the place where we are supposed to take our canoe to the "hippo hide" where we will be staying, we are told by our "guide" (and I use that term very, very loosely) that the boat man just isn't there, so we will have to wait for him to get there before we can canoe to our destination for the weekend. Around 4-ish, maybe 4.30, we finally ask our guide if we can at least sit beside the river to wait for the boat man instead of standing in the middle of tall grass in the middle of nowhere. He says no. But then miraculously he gets a vision from God, after we start complaining of course, that the boat man is there by the river, and takes us to where the boat man is, indeed, waiting for us. FANCY THAT! Someone who actually does their job. As it turns out, the boat man is just a kid from the village who has a leaky canoe that threatens to tip or sink with every gust of wind. The water was literally tipping over the sides whenever one of them had a particularly powerful stroke. I'd say it was about 5pm when we set out on our 30 minute canoe ride to our hippo hide out. Then we start to see the lightning. Not kidding, we are in a leaky canoe in the middle of a 30 minute trip with no place to dock in the middle of a river during a lightning storm. I had drowning/frying nightmares that night. Hard to have at the same time, but what can I say? This was a special place! We finally get to the hippo hide after much trepidation and terror and realize that hide/ hide out is not quite what Molly and I would have called it. We tell-it-like-it-is kind of people would most accurately say: planks of wood nailed together around a tree. It was a platform with a railing. In a tree. This was actually pretty cool for the first 24 hours. We loved our little mosquito net, and getting to hear the sounds of nature. It was quite nice. Until Friday happened. Dum, dum, dum, duuuuuuuh.
I just realized how long this is so I think I will start with Part Deux tomorrow. I know it is hard to believe, but the best is yet to come. I hope you all appreciate that I am still alive after what I will tell you about Friday night. I really at one point, wanted to come home. Like US home. But I'm over it and still here, and alive, and good now. Stay tuned folks, cuz this story is to be continued...
Love,
Haley
Monday, October 22, 2007
I Broke Down...
and sent my laundry out to be done. And it was GLORIOUS! They got a washing machine and dryer in ISH 2 so my sheets, jeans, pillowcase, and other hard to wash items finally feel clean. Really really clean. And I love that feeling. And also I procrastinated and knew I couldn't wash enough laundry to have enough clean clothes for Molly's and my trip. Which is going to be amazing. So anyways, I broke down and had 4 kilos of laundry washed, dried, and folded for me. The damage? 4 GH Cedis. Wicked expensive, but sooooo worth it. It was so nice not to have to slave away scrubbing at dirty stains and clothes that turn the water brown from all the dirt, sweat, and tears hehe.
In other news, I still haven't gotten any packages yet. I'm going to check again tomorrow. The program ladies are starting to get annoyed because I keep asking. hhahaha. But I want my flip-flops!!!!!!!!!!
Also, I'm not sure when I last updated the reading list, so I'll go back a ways. After I finished Jude the Obscure, I read: Catch-22, Harry Potter (twice), Eragon, Eldest (again), Half of a Yellow Sun, and I am simultaneously reading Pale Fire by Vladimir Nabokov and Sense and Sensibility by Jane Austen. I think that's it. I've got more to borrow though. Next on the list includes such beauties as: Confederacy of Dunces, As the Bell Tolls by Hemingway, and some chick flick book I can't remember the name of... should be awesome!!!! I'm so stoked. I really want to find and read Purple Hibiscus by the same author as Half of a Yellow Sun because it was so good.
I have discovered the beauty of the Old 97's. They are my new "can't get them out of my head" band. Check em out. Kinda alt-country/rock. A little folk at times. Haley likey. They were on my iPod because I knew I sorta liked them, but I am sooo into it now. Other new discoveries/acquisitions from iPods other than my own: Martin Sexton, John Legend, Yo La Tengo, Slightly Stoopid, Pepper, AJ Roach, Wolf Parade, La Vent du Nord, and many others that I can't remember right now.
I made some seriously awesome vegetable soup from scratch the other day. It was BOMB. I am going to have to make some for you all when I get home. So easy, so fresh, so healthy, so delicious. Oh yeah.
So, I can't really think of anything else to keep rambling about except my amazing trip to Weichau tomorrow to live with hippos! But I shouldn't gloat anymore, so I'll keep it civil. BUT I AM SO PUMPED IT IS NOT EVEN FUNNY!!!! ok, civil again. Anyways, I gotta go pack.
Mucho amor,
Haley
In other news, I still haven't gotten any packages yet. I'm going to check again tomorrow. The program ladies are starting to get annoyed because I keep asking. hhahaha. But I want my flip-flops!!!!!!!!!!
Also, I'm not sure when I last updated the reading list, so I'll go back a ways. After I finished Jude the Obscure, I read: Catch-22, Harry Potter (twice), Eragon, Eldest (again), Half of a Yellow Sun, and I am simultaneously reading Pale Fire by Vladimir Nabokov and Sense and Sensibility by Jane Austen. I think that's it. I've got more to borrow though. Next on the list includes such beauties as: Confederacy of Dunces, As the Bell Tolls by Hemingway, and some chick flick book I can't remember the name of... should be awesome!!!! I'm so stoked. I really want to find and read Purple Hibiscus by the same author as Half of a Yellow Sun because it was so good.
I have discovered the beauty of the Old 97's. They are my new "can't get them out of my head" band. Check em out. Kinda alt-country/rock. A little folk at times. Haley likey. They were on my iPod because I knew I sorta liked them, but I am sooo into it now. Other new discoveries/acquisitions from iPods other than my own: Martin Sexton, John Legend, Yo La Tengo, Slightly Stoopid, Pepper, AJ Roach, Wolf Parade, La Vent du Nord, and many others that I can't remember right now.
I made some seriously awesome vegetable soup from scratch the other day. It was BOMB. I am going to have to make some for you all when I get home. So easy, so fresh, so healthy, so delicious. Oh yeah.
So, I can't really think of anything else to keep rambling about except my amazing trip to Weichau tomorrow to live with hippos! But I shouldn't gloat anymore, so I'll keep it civil. BUT I AM SO PUMPED IT IS NOT EVEN FUNNY!!!! ok, civil again. Anyways, I gotta go pack.
Mucho amor,
Haley
Saturday, October 20, 2007
BOOO!!!
I'm getting pretty excited about Halloween coming up soon! I know you all have plans of your own, so now you get to hear about mine!! On Tuesday, Molly and I are leaving to spend a week in the Upper West Region at a HIPPO SANCTUARY!!!!!!! That is right all you crazy readers, I am going to live at a hippo sanctuary. With hippos. In the wild. Oh yeah. You know you wish you were me. I know you do. Don't even pretend like you don't. Cause I caughtcha. If that's a word. Short for "caught ya," except actually longer. Aaaanyways, so that's the plan for those of you who like to keep up with my life. If you don't, sorry suckas, but I snuck that info in anyways. hahaha. I pretty much think that this will be the coolest thing that I ever do in the entirety of my life. So, you know, I'm not building it up or anything. The only thing that could improve upon my fantasy of the hippo sanctuary would be if one actually chased me. But I best not get my hopes up. One can only dream though. teehee. I shall take so many pictures of hippos and their watering hole and the grass huts that I will be living in that overlook the watering hole that you will be sick of them. But count this as a fair warning.
In other news besides hippos....
I haven't gotten any packages yet, but mail here is slow and I will check again on Monday.
I am sorry I haven't posted a lot. But hey, that just means that I am having a fulfilling life..... or that I take a lot of naps hehe.
Carlee, I will totally get you a watermelon seed necklace. They are indeed pretty cool. I wore mine as a wrapped bracelet last night. Also very cool.
Trace, what color of glass beads would you prefer? They mostly come in greens and blues, but I can try to find some exotic ones if possible.
P.S. Please explore the HIPPO SANCTUARY!!!!!!! link. It is realllllly cool. Like reeeeaaaaallllllly cool. But it might just make you hate me, it's so cool, so try to keep an open mind. It's not my fault I live in the most awesome place in the whole world.
And actually, on that note, I really do think that I could live here for an extended period of time. I really like it here. Sure, there are things one has to get used to like malaria, food poisoning, giardia, washing clothes by hand, feeling like you are so hot your skin might blister and peel off, peeing in troughs with no possibility of washing your hands. You know, the usual. But in all seriousness, this is the coolest place I have ever lived and I really think that I could do it. Start my little art center and be a Ghanaian. Just something to think about. At least you'd have a cool place to come visit.
Ooooh, and funnily enough, last night I had a dream that Dad, Trace, and the kids came to visit. It was like a comedy movie played in my sleep. So damn funny. Trace sauteed mushrooms for me because I guess I subconsciously crave them, and Dad ate the pepper sauce that I am addicted to and almost cried with joy because a. it was so delicious and b. I loooove it and promised to bring him back some (and I will even in real life). It was a weird dream. I remember Carlee being funny too. I don't remember what you did, but I remember being so happy that you were all here. Good times in my unconscious mind.
Ok, I think I have rambled enough.
Love you all.
-H
In other news besides hippos....
I haven't gotten any packages yet, but mail here is slow and I will check again on Monday.
I am sorry I haven't posted a lot. But hey, that just means that I am having a fulfilling life..... or that I take a lot of naps hehe.
Carlee, I will totally get you a watermelon seed necklace. They are indeed pretty cool. I wore mine as a wrapped bracelet last night. Also very cool.
Trace, what color of glass beads would you prefer? They mostly come in greens and blues, but I can try to find some exotic ones if possible.
P.S. Please explore the HIPPO SANCTUARY!!!!!!! link. It is realllllly cool. Like reeeeaaaaallllllly cool. But it might just make you hate me, it's so cool, so try to keep an open mind. It's not my fault I live in the most awesome place in the whole world.
And actually, on that note, I really do think that I could live here for an extended period of time. I really like it here. Sure, there are things one has to get used to like malaria, food poisoning, giardia, washing clothes by hand, feeling like you are so hot your skin might blister and peel off, peeing in troughs with no possibility of washing your hands. You know, the usual. But in all seriousness, this is the coolest place I have ever lived and I really think that I could do it. Start my little art center and be a Ghanaian. Just something to think about. At least you'd have a cool place to come visit.
Ooooh, and funnily enough, last night I had a dream that Dad, Trace, and the kids came to visit. It was like a comedy movie played in my sleep. So damn funny. Trace sauteed mushrooms for me because I guess I subconsciously crave them, and Dad ate the pepper sauce that I am addicted to and almost cried with joy because a. it was so delicious and b. I loooove it and promised to bring him back some (and I will even in real life). It was a weird dream. I remember Carlee being funny too. I don't remember what you did, but I remember being so happy that you were all here. Good times in my unconscious mind.
Ok, I think I have rambled enough.
Love you all.
-H
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Recyclable Nation
As a counterpoint to what I have told you about all the crazy littering going on in Ghana, I figure I should tell you about what they are doing right for the environment. So on to the many recycled things in Ghana:
1. Tro-tros. You know all those VW vans that you crazy hippies used to drive in the 70's? Ever wondered what happened to them? Well, my friends, I can solve that conundrum for you right now. They are all in Ghana because they have all been converted into tro-tros. After your stoner selves got finished with them, these crafty Ghanaians ripped out that shag carpeting and those disco balls and installed bench seats with fold out chairs for the aisles. They aren't joking around about fitting as many people in there as possible. The phrase "packed in like sardines" takes on a whooole new meaning. You are close enough to the other people where you literally know what they ate for lunch. SERIOUSLY.
2. Watermelon seeds. You think they are just for spitting contests, but oh no. No, no, no, no, no. As I type, right now, I am wearing them around my neck. That's right, suckas, here in Ghana, we make necklaces by stringing them all together. It actually looks really cool.
3. Glass bottles. All the sodas and most of the juices that you drink here come in beautifully recyclable glass bottles. Thank goodness they are doing something to make up for the mass of plastic bags strewn across the ground. These glass bottles can be recycled the normal way and just reused for more sodas and juice... OR ... you can get creative and smash em up, melt em down, and make glass beads out of them! It's so cool when it's done right. They can be painted or the colors of the glass can just show through- ah the beauty of art!
4. Hair. That's right. EWWW. People do the whole weave thing and it is not uncommon to find used hair on the ground.
I had others, but I'm about to go to the orphanage. I'll finish this post later. Sorry to run!!
Love,
Haley
1. Tro-tros. You know all those VW vans that you crazy hippies used to drive in the 70's? Ever wondered what happened to them? Well, my friends, I can solve that conundrum for you right now. They are all in Ghana because they have all been converted into tro-tros. After your stoner selves got finished with them, these crafty Ghanaians ripped out that shag carpeting and those disco balls and installed bench seats with fold out chairs for the aisles. They aren't joking around about fitting as many people in there as possible. The phrase "packed in like sardines" takes on a whooole new meaning. You are close enough to the other people where you literally know what they ate for lunch. SERIOUSLY.
2. Watermelon seeds. You think they are just for spitting contests, but oh no. No, no, no, no, no. As I type, right now, I am wearing them around my neck. That's right, suckas, here in Ghana, we make necklaces by stringing them all together. It actually looks really cool.
3. Glass bottles. All the sodas and most of the juices that you drink here come in beautifully recyclable glass bottles. Thank goodness they are doing something to make up for the mass of plastic bags strewn across the ground. These glass bottles can be recycled the normal way and just reused for more sodas and juice... OR ... you can get creative and smash em up, melt em down, and make glass beads out of them! It's so cool when it's done right. They can be painted or the colors of the glass can just show through- ah the beauty of art!
4. Hair. That's right. EWWW. People do the whole weave thing and it is not uncommon to find used hair on the ground.
I had others, but I'm about to go to the orphanage. I'll finish this post later. Sorry to run!!
Love,
Haley
Monday, October 15, 2007
The Garden of Eden
That's right. It does exist. And I, Haley Elizabeth Ray, have found it. Those silly theologians think that the mythical and epic Garden of Eden lies somewhere in between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers in Mesopotamia, but do not fall for their lies! For I have discovered the truth. The Garden of Eden lies in a place, ironically enough, called The Garden in Kokrobite Beach, Ghana. This was the most beautiful resort with a gorgeous house that we rented for 30 Cedi between 5 people and delicious food, even my first espresso since being here (and it was bomb good). This place was great. And the couple who owned it- oh so adorable. She's Spanish, he's Italian. Their little boy speaks English, Spanish, Italian, and Twi. They are the perfect little cosmopolitan family. And COOL too. We were being kinda loud having fun, hanging out in the house when the lady came and knocked on our door. We thought she was going to be upset and ask us to be quiet or something like that. Right? Wrong! She just wanted to bum a cigarette. hahahhaa. I felt bad that we didn't have any to give her, but I was sooo relieved that she didn't come to yell at us, that I couldn't be anything but happy. All in all it was a sweet weekend.
I did a ton of gift shopping. Spent waaaay too much money- but you will all be glad. Trust me! I am already planning a trip back to Kokrobite as soon as possible. We saw this guy Steven from our drum class there with his mom. She came to visit him!! It was so cute. Anyways, I just thought I should tell you that I am back and had a great time. I forgot to bring my list of stuff to write about, so I'll end it here, and maybe post later today or tomorrow or something? Who knows...
Peace out.
-H
I did a ton of gift shopping. Spent waaaay too much money- but you will all be glad. Trust me! I am already planning a trip back to Kokrobite as soon as possible. We saw this guy Steven from our drum class there with his mom. She came to visit him!! It was so cute. Anyways, I just thought I should tell you that I am back and had a great time. I forgot to bring my list of stuff to write about, so I'll end it here, and maybe post later today or tomorrow or something? Who knows...
Peace out.
-H
Saturday, October 13, 2007
Long Time, No Post
I know it's only been like two days since I have posted, but it feels like foreeeeeeeeever. I think I am starting to rely on this blog as a true outlet of my thoughts and feelings. I so enjoy getting it all out onto the world-wide web. It's such a release of pent-up frustrations, elations, and whatever else. I'm glad you get to be along for the ride.
Anyways, I am heading out to Kokrobite this weekend. Here's another link for the curious. I'll come back tomorrow. Molly and Angela are coming with and Phil and Tequila Dave might be throwin' down too. P.S. It's a loooong story on how Tequila Dave got his name. Ask me some other time. hehe. It's a pretty good one. So, we are beachin' it up and gonna have some fun. Sweeeeet! Another site to try for a good Kokrobite feel? This one right here. Again, catch ya on the flip-side.
--------------------------------------------
In other news, I got a totally sweet postcard from Lucia, my Italian friend who happens to be studying in Madrid right now. That's cool! I sent her a postcard pretty soon after I got here, and I'm totally stoked that she wrote me back!
Also, Rice's schedule came out for next semester, so that's a slap back to reality. Now I gotta figure out what classes I need to take, which ones I'm actually going to take, and how the hell I am supposed to register from Ghana without an advisor or signature or pin release form or pin number at all. I guess I'll have to email somebody, because I soo did not think this part through before I left. Whoops. Comes with being a spontaneous planner, I suppose. (I described spontaneous planning in July, I think. right here, to be exact) If you can't tell... I am totally into links today. I think it comes with the 8am territory that I am wallowing in right now. I'm just surprised I'm coherent at this hour of the day. I'm sure you are too. hahahah.
I must say that I get up so much earlier here than I do at home. At about 6.30 I'm laying in my bed with my eyes closed thinking, "I can tell it's at least 6 because the sun is up, but it can't be later than 7 because the bus hasn't started honking yet, so I guess it's about 6.30, but I don't really want to get up yet because that sounds so early, but I'm logically processing already so I'm clearly awake, but this is a run-on so I'm not quite all the way coherent yet. I'll sleep for 15 more minutes." And thus, I am up at 6.45, ready to go. Shocking I know. Like Madonna in the 90's shocking.
Anywhoo, I think that's all folks. Love ya much and I'll try to post tomorrow when I get back. As always feel free to call or write at your own cost.
Phone from US: +011 233 028 710 4745
Address from US:
PMB 26
Legon, Accra, Ghana
You know you want to....
-H
Anyways, I am heading out to Kokrobite this weekend. Here's another link for the curious. I'll come back tomorrow. Molly and Angela are coming with and Phil and Tequila Dave might be throwin' down too. P.S. It's a loooong story on how Tequila Dave got his name. Ask me some other time. hehe. It's a pretty good one. So, we are beachin' it up and gonna have some fun. Sweeeeet! Another site to try for a good Kokrobite feel? This one right here. Again, catch ya on the flip-side.
--------------------------------------------
In other news, I got a totally sweet postcard from Lucia, my Italian friend who happens to be studying in Madrid right now. That's cool! I sent her a postcard pretty soon after I got here, and I'm totally stoked that she wrote me back!
Also, Rice's schedule came out for next semester, so that's a slap back to reality. Now I gotta figure out what classes I need to take, which ones I'm actually going to take, and how the hell I am supposed to register from Ghana without an advisor or signature or pin release form or pin number at all. I guess I'll have to email somebody, because I soo did not think this part through before I left. Whoops. Comes with being a spontaneous planner, I suppose. (I described spontaneous planning in July, I think. right here, to be exact) If you can't tell... I am totally into links today. I think it comes with the 8am territory that I am wallowing in right now. I'm just surprised I'm coherent at this hour of the day. I'm sure you are too. hahahah.
I must say that I get up so much earlier here than I do at home. At about 6.30 I'm laying in my bed with my eyes closed thinking, "I can tell it's at least 6 because the sun is up, but it can't be later than 7 because the bus hasn't started honking yet, so I guess it's about 6.30, but I don't really want to get up yet because that sounds so early, but I'm logically processing already so I'm clearly awake, but this is a run-on so I'm not quite all the way coherent yet. I'll sleep for 15 more minutes." And thus, I am up at 6.45, ready to go. Shocking I know. Like Madonna in the 90's shocking.
Anywhoo, I think that's all folks. Love ya much and I'll try to post tomorrow when I get back. As always feel free to call or write at your own cost.
Phone from US: +011 233 028 710 4745
Address from US:
PMB 26
Legon, Accra, Ghana
You know you want to....
-H
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
The Hippie Transformation
It is official. Africa has turned me into a hippie. A bona fide hippie. In the time that I have been living in Ghana, the following changes have occurred in my lifestyle:
1. I like tie-dye. That's right- horror of all horrors... Haley Elizabeth Ray has worn and will continue to wear (although in still limited and tasteful amounts) tie-dyed clothing.
2. It is not uncommon for me to go two, maybe three weeks without shaving my legs. You may think it is gross, but the way I see it? Convenient, my friend, convenient. Besides, Ghanaian women don't shave their legs so why should I?
3. I have discovered hemp jewelry and in my excess of time, really enjoy making it. It is quite fun. I have found a new hobby.
4. I am an African drumming master. Well, not master per se, but I like to think I am close haha. Actually, drumming has been going really well lately. Last week, Molly and Heather M. and I had a drumming party up on my balcony and serenaded the whole dorm with our sweet rhythms. It was AWESOME. At least until Auntie Pearl, the manager of the hostel, came and told us we were disturbing people from their 4pm naps. hehe. Devilish we are.
-----------------------------------------------
In other news,
I changed my flights home and will now arrive on December 13th, 2007 at the Memphis Airport at approximately 5.00pm Central Standard time. You people who say you love me better be there! (And bring me a coat... I'll be used to African temperatures)
Also, I finished Half of a Yellow Sun. Excellent book. A wonderful historical fiction about the Nigerian-Biafran war in the late 1960's. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Warning to parents though: this book is very sexually suggestive. Probably a PG-16 read; for Dad- a PG-18 read. In fact, just don't think about the fact that I read it.... it would be easier. hahahha. But seriously, it's a really good book. It makes you think about war and the horrors associated with genocide (in this case, the Igbo genocide). It also might make you ashamed to be British, American, or Russian. We were not too kind.
That's all folks. I love you.
-H
1. I like tie-dye. That's right- horror of all horrors... Haley Elizabeth Ray has worn and will continue to wear (although in still limited and tasteful amounts) tie-dyed clothing.
2. It is not uncommon for me to go two, maybe three weeks without shaving my legs. You may think it is gross, but the way I see it? Convenient, my friend, convenient. Besides, Ghanaian women don't shave their legs so why should I?
3. I have discovered hemp jewelry and in my excess of time, really enjoy making it. It is quite fun. I have found a new hobby.
4. I am an African drumming master. Well, not master per se, but I like to think I am close haha. Actually, drumming has been going really well lately. Last week, Molly and Heather M. and I had a drumming party up on my balcony and serenaded the whole dorm with our sweet rhythms. It was AWESOME. At least until Auntie Pearl, the manager of the hostel, came and told us we were disturbing people from their 4pm naps. hehe. Devilish we are.
-----------------------------------------------
In other news,
I changed my flights home and will now arrive on December 13th, 2007 at the Memphis Airport at approximately 5.00pm Central Standard time. You people who say you love me better be there! (And bring me a coat... I'll be used to African temperatures)
Also, I finished Half of a Yellow Sun. Excellent book. A wonderful historical fiction about the Nigerian-Biafran war in the late 1960's. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Warning to parents though: this book is very sexually suggestive. Probably a PG-16 read; for Dad- a PG-18 read. In fact, just don't think about the fact that I read it.... it would be easier. hahahha. But seriously, it's a really good book. It makes you think about war and the horrors associated with genocide (in this case, the Igbo genocide). It also might make you ashamed to be British, American, or Russian. We were not too kind.
That's all folks. I love you.
-H
Monday, October 8, 2007
This Isn't a Hint I Swear... hint, hint
So I have been thinking of all of you lately and know how much you miss me and I just thought about something that could help us all. Care Packages!!!
The following is a random list of cheap/free things that are lightweight and easy to mail. Note this is just for those who love me more than most and not a hint to the rest of you who clearly don't love me at all and want me to be sad and in culture shock without any reminders of home here in Ghana. No pressure. P.S. My address is Haley Ray, PMB 26, Legon, Accra, Ghana if you forgot.
1. Graham crackers
2. Kleenex in the travel packs
3. A new eye mask (mine is sadly breaking)
4. Pictures of all your adorable faces and happenings
5. Cinnamon gum
6. A few ripped out pages from a Sudoku book
7. Bubblewrap
8. A photocopy of your favorite poem/short story
9. Any Jones/Rice paraphernalia (and yes, that is right. I spell checked it.)
10. Adorable little notes in your handwriting
11. Hand sanitizer
12. Jello
13. Anything from the Dollar Store
14. A nail file and/or orange stick
15. Post-it! notes
16. A list of the best new movies you think I must see when I get back
17. Pop-Tarts (Apple Cinnamon, of course!)
18. Anything from Target
19. Tic-Tacs
20. A Monday (and that is very important) Houston Chronicle (equally important) crossword puzzle
21. Nail polish
22. A highlighter
23. A magazine article that you liked and think I would too
Note that this is merely a suggestion, but that only some of you can fulfill certain random things. I leave the rest up to your discretion.
If you would like to calculate the cost of an imaginary padded envelope (the best deal) to Ghana, that information can be found here at the USPS website. Just for the curious, remember.
Ok, I love you all even if you don't send me anything. Remember that!!! Because this post was just all in good fun. I hope you are all doing soo well!!
Mucho amor,
H
The following is a random list of cheap/free things that are lightweight and easy to mail. Note this is just for those who love me more than most and not a hint to the rest of you who clearly don't love me at all and want me to be sad and in culture shock without any reminders of home here in Ghana. No pressure. P.S. My address is Haley Ray, PMB 26, Legon, Accra, Ghana if you forgot.
1. Graham crackers
2. Kleenex in the travel packs
3. A new eye mask (mine is sadly breaking)
4. Pictures of all your adorable faces and happenings
5. Cinnamon gum
6. A few ripped out pages from a Sudoku book
7. Bubblewrap
8. A photocopy of your favorite poem/short story
9. Any Jones/Rice paraphernalia (and yes, that is right. I spell checked it.)
10. Adorable little notes in your handwriting
11. Hand sanitizer
12. Jello
13. Anything from the Dollar Store
14. A nail file and/or orange stick
15. Post-it! notes
16. A list of the best new movies you think I must see when I get back
17. Pop-Tarts (Apple Cinnamon, of course!)
18. Anything from Target
19. Tic-Tacs
20. A Monday (and that is very important) Houston Chronicle (equally important) crossword puzzle
21. Nail polish
22. A highlighter
23. A magazine article that you liked and think I would too
Note that this is merely a suggestion, but that only some of you can fulfill certain random things. I leave the rest up to your discretion.
If you would like to calculate the cost of an imaginary padded envelope (the best deal) to Ghana, that information can be found here at the USPS website. Just for the curious, remember.
Ok, I love you all even if you don't send me anything. Remember that!!! Because this post was just all in good fun. I hope you are all doing soo well!!
Mucho amor,
H
Sunday, October 7, 2007
Crazy Times at Keta Beach
Dude, this weekend was not what I expected. AT ALL. But it was so much fun I wouldn't have wished for anything different. This might be a long post. And there might be some gross stuff- but gross in a funny, Will Ray way. (Don't take that the wrong way, bro. hehe.)
So Heather M. and I start out on Friday morning by going and getting delicious egg sandwiches before starting on our trip. We hail a tro-tro to Madina which has a larger station. Let me explain something first about tro-tros. They look like an old VW van from the 70's that has had all the regular seats ripped out to be replaced by bench seats all the way to the back. There is usually very little cushioning and zero sealant around the doors and windows. They honestly look like they came as a result of a botched chop-shop job. So, I know this is going to be good when we are sent to the front of the tro-tro to sit beside the driver. I get in first and realize there is not a seat in the middle, but instead a rather large console. This is my spot. Awesome. It reminded me of a story I had actually just told Heather that morning. Dad, you're the only one who should remember this story firsthand. We were rafting down the Ocoee, going through some rapid called Hell's Kitchen or something equally disturbing. I was riding bullhead like the dumb kid I was, when all of a sudden I fell out of the raft and everyone had to pull me out because the guide was clueless and terrified. Good times.
Blah, blah, blah, and we're on our way to Keta. We meet these two nice ladies, Shine and Christine, and Christine will show us where to get off. Not only does she make sure we get off okay, but she takes us to her house and gives us water and lets us use the bathroom and meet her family. Seriously! People in Ghana are so friendly. You have to be careful around strangers, but you can tell when someone's creepy or not. She even chased the beggar children away from us and walked us all the way to the beach so we wouldn't get lost.
Once we got to the beach, we sat for a while admiring the vibrant colors of the sea and sky, lamenting that the beauty was marred by all the waste on the beach. And when I say waste, I mean that in two ways. There was trash- and there was crap. Literally. Plumbing isn't common in that part of the country so people seriously take dumps on the beach so they will wash away into the ocean. It was disgusting. We actually witnessed a few people in the act itself. Talk about NASTY. But not to dwell on that, the day was pretty cool. We made friends with some fishermen and helped them pull in their nets from the ocean. Now that is some hard work. Those fishermen don't mess. After about 10 minutes my and Heather's hands were bright red, rubbed raw from the rope. They laughed so hard when they saw our hands and told us to stop, that we had helped enough. They said thanks and we went on our way. I truly have a new appreciation for fishing. It requires some serious brawn. Brawn that I sooooo don't have. We weren't total wusses though. Just halfway hahahha. We also helped some guys move a boat/huge canoe thing up the beach. That was hard too. It was wet and slippery and really hard to grasp. We didn't really help. But again they just thought it was funny that the white girls were helping. It was awesome. hehe. Other than that Heather got proposed to, we played limbo with the ropes leading out to the fishing nets from the beached boats, and oh man, Heather bitched out this little boy because he came up and started talking to her, then all of a sudden, told her to give him money. She got so mad and told him it was very rude to pretend to be friends and then ask for money. It was hilarious. I don't give them money usually unless they actually look hungry and not just like they want to dupe the foreigner out of some cash, but I have never actually chided them. I was so proud of Heather in that moment. Sometimes I tease the kids and backtalk them or make funny faces and they laugh at the crazy white lady, but I never thought to actually tell them that it was rude to interrupt people and demand money.
After we got back to the hotel, we ate dinner, then practiced our drumming on our stomachs and went to bed in our bare little room that didn't even have real sheets. An hour or so later, I was laying face down trying to go to sleep with my little eye mask on and everything, and I feel something- a sudden slight pressure on my butt. Instantly, I know. I don't know how I knew that fast being in semi-consciousness, but oh I knew. I let out a muffled shriek and jerked off the bed as fast as I could. The nasty huge cockroach fell off and scuttled under the bed. I made Heather kill it. It was gross. And that was Friday. We switched rooms the next day.
So Saturday we got up early and took a 3 hour walk on the beach. If you have not walked down the beach for three hours in ill fitting shoes on soft sand trying to get to a lighthouse, but are too cheap to get a cab, then you cannot empathize with me. It was hot. Like seriously hot. The ocean breeze helped but it was hot enough that we each had our sweat rags out and still dripped like fools. The sunburn that resulted is pink, but not too noticeable or painful. I must say that I am impressed. Two months ago, I would have fried on a day like yesterday. My poor little albino skin would have turned beet red. No doubt. Anyways, we climbed up the lighthouse then got yelled at by some guy who asked us who let us up there. We informed him that there was no sign and no caretaker and we were interested by the view at the top. He just shrugged, and let it go. I think he wanted to be mad, but couldn't because there seriously was no sign or anyone telling us that we couldn't go up. So we walked on to the road and passed the craziest funeral procession I have ever seen. These people had t-shirts and stickers printed with the guys face on them. It was nuts! I solemnly swear that when I get home, I am going to make you all promise never to bury me wearing a t-shirt with my face and age at death on it. Please, dear god, don't do it to me. I beg you.
We decided to go swimming last night in the hotel pool. But we had to do it secretly because we saw a sign in the lobby that made it seem like you had to pay extra to use the pool. We didn't ask, but just decided that if we weren't supposed to be there, somebody would tell us. It was one of those ignorance is bliss decisions combined with the fact that we are cheap little suckers. It was one of the best swims I have had in my life. The water was cool and refreshing on my burn and the possibility of discovery made our adventure seem daring and James Bond-esque. As it turns out, people saw us but didn't say anything, so we probably weren't as daring and rule-breaking as we thought we were.
That pretty much sums up our trip. It's late and I'm tired so I will leave one last jewel of a story to tell you all later this week. Hope you're doing well. Comment if you like. Ask questions if you please.
Love,
H
So Heather M. and I start out on Friday morning by going and getting delicious egg sandwiches before starting on our trip. We hail a tro-tro to Madina which has a larger station. Let me explain something first about tro-tros. They look like an old VW van from the 70's that has had all the regular seats ripped out to be replaced by bench seats all the way to the back. There is usually very little cushioning and zero sealant around the doors and windows. They honestly look like they came as a result of a botched chop-shop job. So, I know this is going to be good when we are sent to the front of the tro-tro to sit beside the driver. I get in first and realize there is not a seat in the middle, but instead a rather large console. This is my spot. Awesome. It reminded me of a story I had actually just told Heather that morning. Dad, you're the only one who should remember this story firsthand. We were rafting down the Ocoee, going through some rapid called Hell's Kitchen or something equally disturbing. I was riding bullhead like the dumb kid I was, when all of a sudden I fell out of the raft and everyone had to pull me out because the guide was clueless and terrified. Good times.
Blah, blah, blah, and we're on our way to Keta. We meet these two nice ladies, Shine and Christine, and Christine will show us where to get off. Not only does she make sure we get off okay, but she takes us to her house and gives us water and lets us use the bathroom and meet her family. Seriously! People in Ghana are so friendly. You have to be careful around strangers, but you can tell when someone's creepy or not. She even chased the beggar children away from us and walked us all the way to the beach so we wouldn't get lost.
Once we got to the beach, we sat for a while admiring the vibrant colors of the sea and sky, lamenting that the beauty was marred by all the waste on the beach. And when I say waste, I mean that in two ways. There was trash- and there was crap. Literally. Plumbing isn't common in that part of the country so people seriously take dumps on the beach so they will wash away into the ocean. It was disgusting. We actually witnessed a few people in the act itself. Talk about NASTY. But not to dwell on that, the day was pretty cool. We made friends with some fishermen and helped them pull in their nets from the ocean. Now that is some hard work. Those fishermen don't mess. After about 10 minutes my and Heather's hands were bright red, rubbed raw from the rope. They laughed so hard when they saw our hands and told us to stop, that we had helped enough. They said thanks and we went on our way. I truly have a new appreciation for fishing. It requires some serious brawn. Brawn that I sooooo don't have. We weren't total wusses though. Just halfway hahahha. We also helped some guys move a boat/huge canoe thing up the beach. That was hard too. It was wet and slippery and really hard to grasp. We didn't really help. But again they just thought it was funny that the white girls were helping. It was awesome. hehe. Other than that Heather got proposed to, we played limbo with the ropes leading out to the fishing nets from the beached boats, and oh man, Heather bitched out this little boy because he came up and started talking to her, then all of a sudden, told her to give him money. She got so mad and told him it was very rude to pretend to be friends and then ask for money. It was hilarious. I don't give them money usually unless they actually look hungry and not just like they want to dupe the foreigner out of some cash, but I have never actually chided them. I was so proud of Heather in that moment. Sometimes I tease the kids and backtalk them or make funny faces and they laugh at the crazy white lady, but I never thought to actually tell them that it was rude to interrupt people and demand money.
After we got back to the hotel, we ate dinner, then practiced our drumming on our stomachs and went to bed in our bare little room that didn't even have real sheets. An hour or so later, I was laying face down trying to go to sleep with my little eye mask on and everything, and I feel something- a sudden slight pressure on my butt. Instantly, I know. I don't know how I knew that fast being in semi-consciousness, but oh I knew. I let out a muffled shriek and jerked off the bed as fast as I could. The nasty huge cockroach fell off and scuttled under the bed. I made Heather kill it. It was gross. And that was Friday. We switched rooms the next day.
So Saturday we got up early and took a 3 hour walk on the beach. If you have not walked down the beach for three hours in ill fitting shoes on soft sand trying to get to a lighthouse, but are too cheap to get a cab, then you cannot empathize with me. It was hot. Like seriously hot. The ocean breeze helped but it was hot enough that we each had our sweat rags out and still dripped like fools. The sunburn that resulted is pink, but not too noticeable or painful. I must say that I am impressed. Two months ago, I would have fried on a day like yesterday. My poor little albino skin would have turned beet red. No doubt. Anyways, we climbed up the lighthouse then got yelled at by some guy who asked us who let us up there. We informed him that there was no sign and no caretaker and we were interested by the view at the top. He just shrugged, and let it go. I think he wanted to be mad, but couldn't because there seriously was no sign or anyone telling us that we couldn't go up. So we walked on to the road and passed the craziest funeral procession I have ever seen. These people had t-shirts and stickers printed with the guys face on them. It was nuts! I solemnly swear that when I get home, I am going to make you all promise never to bury me wearing a t-shirt with my face and age at death on it. Please, dear god, don't do it to me. I beg you.
We decided to go swimming last night in the hotel pool. But we had to do it secretly because we saw a sign in the lobby that made it seem like you had to pay extra to use the pool. We didn't ask, but just decided that if we weren't supposed to be there, somebody would tell us. It was one of those ignorance is bliss decisions combined with the fact that we are cheap little suckers. It was one of the best swims I have had in my life. The water was cool and refreshing on my burn and the possibility of discovery made our adventure seem daring and James Bond-esque. As it turns out, people saw us but didn't say anything, so we probably weren't as daring and rule-breaking as we thought we were.
That pretty much sums up our trip. It's late and I'm tired so I will leave one last jewel of a story to tell you all later this week. Hope you're doing well. Comment if you like. Ask questions if you please.
Love,
H
Thursday, October 4, 2007
Time for a Vacation and Some Meditation
Last night as I was dancing around my room to "Under My Thumb" by The Rolling Stones (and when I say dancing I really mean flailing my arms wildly while stomping and doing some ridiculous air guitar), I realized that I am so de-stressed here in Ghana that it's not even funny. I knew that I wanted to relax while I am here and allow myself to decompress and quit doing things that I think I have to do, but know deep down are superfluous. All of you who know me, know that I am an overcommitter. If that's even a word. hahaha. My planner rules my life and if I have an empty moment, I will do all in my power just to fill it with something I deem worthwhile. I am the phrase "busy bee." So being in Ghana with no job, no real schoolwork, no clubs, no boyfriend, and no car has really cramped my style. I have had more time than I know what to do with. And even though it is something I would never do under normal circumstances, I have decided to enjoy it. Not just enjoy it even... revel in it. I have read more books in the two months that I have been here than I normally do all school year. I have taken a thousand pictures (no, really I have). I have become more tan than I have been since that time I lived in Italy and tanned on the beach with baby oil (bad, I know but I was a stupid 16 year old). And I have found so much peace in my soul that I never thought possible before coming here. This experience has been one of true cleansing, purification, and forgiveness. It has been invaluable to my growth in emotional, mental, and spiritual realms.
In keeping with my determination to promote a healthy well-being for myself, I am going away this weekend on a self-imposed reflection retreat. I am going with Heather M. also in my USAC group, but we have agreed to keep interactions minimal while we are there. We will travel together, eat together, and stay together, but will have the days free to be together or apart as we please. I thought about a vow of silence for the weekend, but I think that is silly for me. I don't need to restrict myself in such a way. Merely I am going to relax and ponder many things while I watch the waves crash against the beach, listen to the birds fill the air with delightful sounds, and otherwise enjoy the purity of Keta, Ghana. Here is another link that has photos and blogs. I'm not going to read them, but you can if you would like. From what I have read in the guide books, Keta has a lovely beach, a bird sanctuary with an observation platform, some rare wildlife due to the massive lagoon, and Ghana's oldest lighthouse. I will leave tomorrow morning and return Sunday night. I am very excited!
In other news, I ordered a totally sweet blanket from seamstress Jane and some fake Tevas from the shoe guys in our night market. I hope all turns out well with these investments.
-------------------------------------
Also, to all my readers in Houston or even just my readers who love coffee. October is Fair Trade month, so get out there and support Rice Coffeehouse!!! They have some totally sweet new shirts and bumper stickers. Pick one up ASAP along with a cup of delicious, fresh, brewed from beans not mixed from powder and water like they have in Africa, real coffee. It will be worth your while. Trust me. You will never love coffee more than when you are forced to drink instant nasty for 5 months straight.
The only problem comes when someone like Dylan comes to you and tells you in secret that he has found a place in this campus-city that serves real coffee brewed from beans at 202 degrees Fahrenheit exactly as real coffee should be. He goes on to lure you by saying that the drip coffee is $2 a cup, but the refills are free. As your eyes widen with lust and you question him as to the location of this oasis, this refuge from all bad coffee imitations, all of the sudden he grins. Without another word needed you know. You start girl-slapping him for the cruel joke, the insensitive teasing, the false hope placed deep in the core of your longing.
This my dear friends and readers is the plight I must endure for my love affair with coffee. Alas, absence makes the heart grow fonder. But anyways, those of you who can get it, should get it from the Coffeehouse. Have some good tea while you're at it. I'm irritated by this pre-bagged stuff too. Loose leaf is where it's at.
Ok, there's my soapbox for the day. I'm out for the weekend, so I'll catch ya on the flip side.
Peace out homies.
-H
In keeping with my determination to promote a healthy well-being for myself, I am going away this weekend on a self-imposed reflection retreat. I am going with Heather M. also in my USAC group, but we have agreed to keep interactions minimal while we are there. We will travel together, eat together, and stay together, but will have the days free to be together or apart as we please. I thought about a vow of silence for the weekend, but I think that is silly for me. I don't need to restrict myself in such a way. Merely I am going to relax and ponder many things while I watch the waves crash against the beach, listen to the birds fill the air with delightful sounds, and otherwise enjoy the purity of Keta, Ghana. Here is another link that has photos and blogs. I'm not going to read them, but you can if you would like. From what I have read in the guide books, Keta has a lovely beach, a bird sanctuary with an observation platform, some rare wildlife due to the massive lagoon, and Ghana's oldest lighthouse. I will leave tomorrow morning and return Sunday night. I am very excited!
In other news, I ordered a totally sweet blanket from seamstress Jane and some fake Tevas from the shoe guys in our night market. I hope all turns out well with these investments.
-------------------------------------
Also, to all my readers in Houston or even just my readers who love coffee. October is Fair Trade month, so get out there and support Rice Coffeehouse!!! They have some totally sweet new shirts and bumper stickers. Pick one up ASAP along with a cup of delicious, fresh, brewed from beans not mixed from powder and water like they have in Africa, real coffee. It will be worth your while. Trust me. You will never love coffee more than when you are forced to drink instant nasty for 5 months straight.
The only problem comes when someone like Dylan comes to you and tells you in secret that he has found a place in this campus-city that serves real coffee brewed from beans at 202 degrees Fahrenheit exactly as real coffee should be. He goes on to lure you by saying that the drip coffee is $2 a cup, but the refills are free. As your eyes widen with lust and you question him as to the location of this oasis, this refuge from all bad coffee imitations, all of the sudden he grins. Without another word needed you know. You start girl-slapping him for the cruel joke, the insensitive teasing, the false hope placed deep in the core of your longing.
This my dear friends and readers is the plight I must endure for my love affair with coffee. Alas, absence makes the heart grow fonder. But anyways, those of you who can get it, should get it from the Coffeehouse. Have some good tea while you're at it. I'm irritated by this pre-bagged stuff too. Loose leaf is where it's at.
Ok, there's my soapbox for the day. I'm out for the weekend, so I'll catch ya on the flip side.
Peace out homies.
-H
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
I Know; I'm Sorry. But I Do Sort of Have an Excuse
I realize that it has been quite a while since my last post. And for that dear family-and-friends-who-are-worried-about-my-life-and-safety-in-Africa, I apologize. But alas, I am still alive and thwarting the efforts of those pesky mosquitoes. That being said, there were many things that delayed my posting including but not limited to: lack of electricity, an excursion to Makola Market, one hell of a nasty migraine, and a deep inner need to finish Catch-22 and Eragon this weekend.
OK, enough apologies... I post when I post. So, wow, two months down, two to go. Ish. That's so weird to think about. I am pretty much halfway through with my time in Ghana. Sometimes it crawls by and then other times, it just flies. It's just hard to believe that I have done, seen, and experienced so much in such a short period of time. I feel like I have been so blessed in my life. I would just like to take a moment before I continue to thank all those people who have pushed me along in life, sacrificed for me, and provided the opportunities that I have been able to experience. Thank you all. I appreciate it more than you know, and more than I usually express.
-------------------------------
I GOT A DRUM TODAY. AND IT IS SO BADASS THAT THERE AREN'T WORDS TO DESCRIBE HOW BADASS IT IS. It has two adinkra symbols on it, and elephants, and my name, and pretty swirly patterns. It is a palago/palogo (I don't know how to spell it), which is a traditional Ghanaian style. If you can't tell, I am pretty pumped about it. Man, am I psyched! It is so pretty and so cool and I love it. Shiabu (the really cool Rasta man with dreads who made our drums and is killer when he plays and ooh so rasta-sexy) taught me how to do this really cool drum thing where you hit the drum with one hand and slide one finger across the drum with the other hand and it makes this really cool sound like "wooOOOooo-ooh." I think that you will all just have to trust me that it's a really cool sound because there is no way in hell that any of you understood that phrase to mean what I tried to make it sound like. If you have a really cool drum with your name and African symbols on the side and antelope hide as the top and you hit it with one hand while you slide your fingers across it with the other and it makes a super-cool noise then that is the one I wanted you to hear!! Probably. If you have a cool drum teacher like Shaibu. And I'm gloating now. Apologies.
-----------------------------------------------
I'm feeling a little sick again, so I'm going to go (this week hasn't been much for my health, unfortunately), but I will leave you with a few tidbits of internet lore:
Haley's Top 5 Favorite Sites Online (in no particular order I promise)
1. Dooce - A totally irreverent account of Heather Armstrong's life. I feel like we have similar writing styles. Maybe that's because I like to fancy myself as funny and as witty as she...
2. Postsecret - A collection of raw, unedited, honest secrets from the lives of those who choose to remain anonymous. New secrets are posted every Sunday. A beautiful art project in my opinion.
3. Flickr - Beautiful photos. If someone wants to buy me a pro account, you are more than welcome. My user name is haleyeray. Otherwise I am seriously editing my pics when I upload them back home. (You are only allowed to upload 30 pictures a month on the free accounts.)
4. Design*Sponge - This woman has impeccable taste. Impeccable. Do not even try to dissuade me of that fact.
5. Tiny Showcase - This site is cool. I love, love, love the art they have up (most weeks) and have even gotten a few pieces from the site/artists displayed thereon.
6. Wooster Collective - I know I said 5, but I forgot this one and it must be included. The best street art from all over the world. So cool. Such talent. Such beauty.
I hope you have enjoyed this glimpse into the inner life of Haley. I'll write again soon. Please do try to keep me updated on your lives as well. I am mucho interested.
Love you all,
Haley
OK, enough apologies... I post when I post. So, wow, two months down, two to go. Ish. That's so weird to think about. I am pretty much halfway through with my time in Ghana. Sometimes it crawls by and then other times, it just flies. It's just hard to believe that I have done, seen, and experienced so much in such a short period of time. I feel like I have been so blessed in my life. I would just like to take a moment before I continue to thank all those people who have pushed me along in life, sacrificed for me, and provided the opportunities that I have been able to experience. Thank you all. I appreciate it more than you know, and more than I usually express.
-------------------------------
I GOT A DRUM TODAY. AND IT IS SO BADASS THAT THERE AREN'T WORDS TO DESCRIBE HOW BADASS IT IS. It has two adinkra symbols on it, and elephants, and my name, and pretty swirly patterns. It is a palago/palogo (I don't know how to spell it), which is a traditional Ghanaian style. If you can't tell, I am pretty pumped about it. Man, am I psyched! It is so pretty and so cool and I love it. Shiabu (the really cool Rasta man with dreads who made our drums and is killer when he plays and ooh so rasta-sexy) taught me how to do this really cool drum thing where you hit the drum with one hand and slide one finger across the drum with the other hand and it makes this really cool sound like "wooOOOooo-ooh." I think that you will all just have to trust me that it's a really cool sound because there is no way in hell that any of you understood that phrase to mean what I tried to make it sound like. If you have a really cool drum with your name and African symbols on the side and antelope hide as the top and you hit it with one hand while you slide your fingers across it with the other and it makes a super-cool noise then that is the one I wanted you to hear!! Probably. If you have a cool drum teacher like Shaibu. And I'm gloating now. Apologies.
-----------------------------------------------
I'm feeling a little sick again, so I'm going to go (this week hasn't been much for my health, unfortunately), but I will leave you with a few tidbits of internet lore:
Haley's Top 5 Favorite Sites Online (in no particular order I promise)
1. Dooce - A totally irreverent account of Heather Armstrong's life. I feel like we have similar writing styles. Maybe that's because I like to fancy myself as funny and as witty as she...
2. Postsecret - A collection of raw, unedited, honest secrets from the lives of those who choose to remain anonymous. New secrets are posted every Sunday. A beautiful art project in my opinion.
3. Flickr - Beautiful photos. If someone wants to buy me a pro account, you are more than welcome. My user name is haleyeray. Otherwise I am seriously editing my pics when I upload them back home. (You are only allowed to upload 30 pictures a month on the free accounts.)
4. Design*Sponge - This woman has impeccable taste. Impeccable. Do not even try to dissuade me of that fact.
5. Tiny Showcase - This site is cool. I love, love, love the art they have up (most weeks) and have even gotten a few pieces from the site/artists displayed thereon.
6. Wooster Collective - I know I said 5, but I forgot this one and it must be included. The best street art from all over the world. So cool. Such talent. Such beauty.
I hope you have enjoyed this glimpse into the inner life of Haley. I'll write again soon. Please do try to keep me updated on your lives as well. I am mucho interested.
Love you all,
Haley
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)